Clan
Trail
of Rannoch
Clan
Donnachaidh country
Clan
MacDonald
Clan
Menzies
Clan
MacGregor
The
Braes of Rannoch
Clan
MacDougall
Clan
Cameron
Clan
Robertson
Clan
Stewart
A Few Attractions
Queen's View
Rannoch
Station
Edradour
Distillery
Blair
Castle
Pitlochry
Theatre
Aberfeldy
Castle
Menzies
Rannoch
Moor
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Kinloch
Rannoch village lies on the River Tummel, at the eastern end of
Loch Rannoch
in the Breadalbane country of beautiful Highland Perthshire (
Area
Map ). The river flows eastwards through Dunalastair reservoir,
which is part of the Tummel Garry hydro-electric scheme, while
power-houses are situated at the far western end of the loch,
and also at Tummel Bridge. To the south-east of Kinloch Rannoch,
is Dalchosnie ( Map
) , where English invaders are said to have fought Robert the
Bruce in 1306, and farther south extends Glen Sassunn, beyond
which rise the peaks of the extensive 3,000 ft Carn Mairg group
of mountains.
Rannoch
was devastated by government troops after the 1745 rebellion.
The Atholl Brigade, the fighting men from Tummelside suffered
the greatest number of casuaties at Culloden.
The government knew that the Jacobite flame burned fiercely in
this area, and they intended to put it out for good. The fugitive
Jacobites hiding in the hills and forests could only watch from
the crags above as their homes were destroyed.
The
settlement of Kinloch Rannoch ( village
map ) originated after the 1745 rebellion. It is odd, that
since Kinloch means head of the loch, the village should be situated
at the foot. Similarly, as most Scottish rivers are named after
the loch from which they originate, it would be have been expected
that the River Tummel
would have been named Rannoch. After the 1745 rebellion government
Redcoats built roads from Tummel Bridge and around
the side of Schiehallion. The River
Tummel was then bridged at the settlement of Kinloch Rannoch.
At first, the village was to have been populated by retired soldiers
who would have been available to guard against further rebellions,
but retired soldiers proved unsuited to the slow pace of Highland
crofting life. Thus, for the first time, Rannoch inhabitants were
given leases to their very own few acres of land. At one time
it was intended to drive a road across Rannoch Moor to Glencoe
and thus make Kinloch Rannoch the central hub of the Highlands
of Scotland. Redcoats did indeed build a few miles of road westwards
from their barracks at the head of loch but were unable to drain
the desolate Rannoch
Moor.
One
of the most famous men of that time was Dugald Buchanan who was
born, in the early part of the eighteenth century, in the parish
of Balquhidder, Perthshire. Little is known of Dugald until he
was found keeping a small school in a hamlet of his native county,
and in possession of much local fame as a writer of devotional
and pious verses. Some infuential persons, struck by his talents,
interested themselves in his fate, and soon obtained for him the
prominent position of schoolmaster and lay preacher at Kinloch
Rannoch, on the establishment of the society for propagating Christian
knowledge.
When
he first went to live in Kinloch Rannoch, the locals were so uncivil,
from the lack of religious instruction, that they hardly recognised
the sacred nature of the Sabbath. They were in the habit of meeting
at different places, on that day, to amuse themselves with football
and other sports. The parish clergyman visited them once every
three weeks; but, from the size of the parish, he seems to have
been unable to exercise any proper control over them. Buchanan,
it is said, invited them all to come and enjoy their Sunday recreations
with him, and when they arrived, began to perform divine worship,
which he seasoned with a lecture on the sin of Sabbath-breaking.
Though many were put off at first, all of them became at length
convinced of the error of their ways, and Buchanan in time brought
them into a state of high religious culture, the effects of which
are said to be visible to this day in Rannoch. Dugald was, by
all accounts, very tender-hearted, insomuch, that when he heard
a pathetic tale recounted, he could not abstain from weeping.
He was equally subject to shed tears when his heart was excited
with joy, gratitude, and admiration. In his conversation, he was
known as modest, mild, and unassuming, and distinguished by great
affability. His poems and hymns, which have been repeatedly printed,
are equal to any in the Gaelic language. He died, on the 2nd of
July, 1768, under very painful circumstances. On returning home
from a long journey, he found two of his children lying sick of
a fever. Shortly after, six more of them were seized by it, together
with himself and two of his servants. While his family lay in
this sad condition, his wife could prevail upon no one to engage
in her service, and being herself in a peculiarly delicate condition,
she was unable to do much for their comfort. The poor poet soon
became delirious, and, in a few days, he and all his family were
swept off, leaving only his wife to lament his fate, and her own
melancholy condition. Dugald Buchanan was laid to rest in Balquhidder
and a monument in his memory was erected in the centre of Kinloch
Rannoch.
Loch
Rannoch has well-wooded roads on both north and south shores,
these roads converging some five miles east of the remote Rannoch
Railroad Station, which lies almost on the Argyll border. Near
the point where the roads meet, a mansion, known as The Barracks,
was erected for the troops after the '45. The desolate expanse
of Rannoch Moor stretches westwards from the railhead, and contains
Loch Laidon and Loch Ba. Beyond the ridge of the Black Corries
are the large Blackwater Reservoir and the small Lochan a Chlaidheimh,
the latter associated with a sword thrown into its waters by a
15th century Earl of Atholl in connection with a land claim against
the Camerons.
From
the Moor, views of the lofty Black Mount, the Glencoe and the
Grampian mountains may be obtained. This country has been graphically
described in R. L. Stevenson's " Kidnapped. " Northwards
from Loch Rannoch, and linked by a tunnel aqueduct, lies the lonely
Loch Ericht, overlooked by the fine peak of Ben Alder, 3,757 ft,
but not accessible by road except at the far north-east extremity
near Dalwhinnie. To the south-east of Kinloch Rannoch rises the
sharp quartzite cone of Schiehallion, 3,547 ft., one of the best
known landmarks and viewpoints in the Central Highlands, and the
focal point in the panorama from the famous Queen's View near
Loch Tummel.
Schiehallion,
whose name means either 'the Maiden's Pap' or the 'Seat of the
Caledonian Fairies' or the 'Fairy Hill of the Caledonians', is
one of the most romantic and interesting mountains in Scotland.
On the east side of the mountain lies the Maiden's Well, where
on the first of May, the girls from local villages would dance
and drink to bring health and good fortune for the year to come.
Schiehallion also has place in scientific history, as it was on
its slopes that an attempt was made to measure the mass of the
earth using the displacement of a pendulum, by
the then Astronomer-Royal, Nevil Maskelyne. Schiehallion Mountain
was chosen for this purpose due to its isolation and conical shape.
Coincidentally, many calculations to work out the absolute geographical
centre of Scotland arrive at spots very close to this hill. Among
those helping Maskelyne was William Mason who invented the contour
line. Mason gave his name to the 'Mason-Dixon Line' which marked
the boundary of the northern and southern states of America.
Beyond
Schiehallion, to the west, is Geal Charn, 2,593 ft., which rises
at the head of Gleann Mor. From the south shores of Loch Rannoch,
on the edge of the Black Wood of Rannoch, where the native Caledonian
pine is still to be seen growing, a path leads over the hills
giving access to Glen Lyon. Beyond the reservoir, to the east
of the village, a road diverges northwards, climbing to over 1,000
ft., and later descending through Glen Erochy to reach Struan
in Glen Garry. Another road climbs steeply on to the moors to
the south-east of Kinloch Rannoch, and after passing the ruined
St. Blane's Chapel at Lassintullich, goes close to the lower slopes
of Schiehallion on the way to the little Loch
Kinardochy near White Bridge.
St.
Blane was the first missionary to visit Rannoch. He established
his cell in the old Druids Grove of Lassintullich ( Map
) where the early inhabitants worshipped by the ancient standing
stone. Here also was the sacred healing well which became known
as St. Peters Well which had been commonly used in pagan
times. His church was built on the place which has become known
as Tom an t Seipel or Chapel Hill, and it was consecrated with
sacred dust from lona. The present ruin occupies the site of the
ancient chapel and the present building recalls the primitive
architecture of the Celts with its small round headed window.
The standing stone has been inscribed with a cross by the Christians
in later years. St. Blane died in AD 590.
St.
Chad who gave his name to Innerhadden ( Map
) was said to have found the people of this area in a sad state
but he laboured in the fields with them and encouraged them so
that it was said that he brought a new hope to one and all. The
grave yard said to be the site of his cell is set in a most peaceful
and beautiful grove overlooked by Schichallion. He had many other
cells to visit but he came to Rannoch once a year.
St.
Moluag had a reputation for long journeys and it is not surprising
that he had frequent visits to this region. Both Dunalastair and
Carie claim to have connections with him.
St.
Conan consecrated the old church of St. Conans with the
sacred dust from The Isle of lona. Killichonan ( Map
) burial ground is said to be the old churchyard. A St. Congan
is also mentioned as having been buried here so there may be a
confusion of names.
Other burial grounds in Rannoch have the names of Saints attached
to them; St. Lukes at Dunalastair with its ancient spring called
Argentine; St. Michaels of Camghouran and St. Maronaig of Carie
being examples. Although some say that there would appear to be
more saints than sinners in Rannoch at that time, there is no
doubt that these men brought great benefit to the area.
In later days the graveyards became particular clan burial grounds.
Killichonan contains the MacGregors, St. Michaels, the Camerons,
St. Lukes the Robertsons and Innerhadden and Lassintullich the
Stewarts.
Rannoch
is without doubt one of the most interesting, scenic, and rewarding
parts of Scotland. Despite its wild and unspoilt beauty it is
quite accessible being only 50 miles from Perth, a small mileage
as far as the Highlands are concerned. Kinloch Rannoch itself
makes an excellent base for enjoying wild scenery and yet at the
same time being well situated to explore Rannoch Station, Pitlochry,
Blair Atholl, Killiecrankie, Dunkeld, Aberfeldy, Kenmore, Killin,
Perth, Kenmore, Glen Lyon, Fortingall, Castle Menzies, Moulin,
Edradour Distillery etc. Wonderful walks abound in Rannoch and
there are opportunities to fish and golf in the surrounding area.
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