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Clan
Cameron
Map
of this location
Car
parking on the roadside by the
gate leading to Cameron's Graveyard.
A
turbulent tribe of Camerons from Glen Nevis settled at Camghouran,
but they continued
to fight for their chief, Lochiel, particularly at Culloden
in 1746. They were as notorious as other Rannoch Clans at the
Creach or Cattle Raiding and for their love of fighting. Their
traditional enemies were the Mackintoshes, one of whose chiefs,
in a lovers quarrel brained the children of Ewan Cameron
on a stone, one after another. In the resulting battle both
clans lost many men. The stone, called Stone of the Heads or
Clach na Ceann, is to be found on the left hand side of the
gate at the graveyard here. There was a village of 20-30 Cameron
houses here before the Clearances.
The
Camerons
Map
of this location
In
days past the boundary between the Cameron and Rannoch lands was
roughly where the West Highland Railway now makes its way from
Rannoch Station to Corrour. If you travel on the train you will
get a fleeting glimpse of a peat-stained lochan with a sandy shore
a mile or two from Rannoch. This is called Loch a Chlaidheimh
(In English: the Loch of the Sword). The story of how it got its
name is an important one in Rannoch history, and although the
account of the incident which occurred there has no doubt been
improved with the telling it is based on an old and
persistent tradition from the 17th century.
This
tradition states that there were frequent clashes between the
Cameron and Rannoch Clansmen because each claimed the valuable
grazing lands of Beinn a Bhric and the pastures around the
Blackwater. (This was, of course, hundreds of years before the
area was flooded to make Blackwater Reservoir). Ewen Cameron of
Lochiel arranged to meet the Earl of Atholl on the disputed march
and come to a decision, once and for all, about the boundary between
their lands. Each agreed to be accompanied by one man. Hardly
had Lochiel set off when he met the well-known witch Gormsuil
(The Blue-eyed One). Turn back, she said, where
are your men? If you go to meet a wolf you need more hounds.
He decided it would be prudent to do as she said. Choose
three score and five of your best men she added. Near the
loch -then nameless - he told his men to hide in the heather unless
he gave a signal. At High Noon the two warriors strode
towards one another warily, hands on sword hilts. Soon a heated
argument arose about the boundary and swords flashed in the air.
At a shrill whistle fifty hidden Atholl warriors appeared behind
their chief, who said triumphantly, These are my Atholl
wedders come to graze on the Lochaber grass. Instantly Lochiel
gave his own signal and sixty-five Cameron warriors sprang up
eager for the fray. These are my Lochaber dogs and they
are gey hungry for the flesh of the Atholl wedders.
Seeing
that he was outnumbered Atholl gave way to Lochiel and renounced
for ever his claim to the disputed grazings and to ratify the
agreement a sword was thrown into the loch. Thus the lochan got
its name. And the sword remained there for years until in 1812
it was found by a herd-boy when the loch was low during a dry
summer. The rusty and peat stained claymore was taken to Fort
William, to a Dr Thomas Ross. When the leading inhabitants heard
what had happened they decided it must be returned to the loch
from which it had been removed. It was carried with fitting solemnity
by twelve men back to the Loch of the Sword where it was thrown
far out and (in the words of Seton Gordon) for an instant
as it sped, its trusty blade turned to glowing bronze in the sunlight,
then, like Excalibur, it sank for ever from sight. The story
illustrates the great importance of grazing lands to the Highland
Communities such as those of the Camerons and those of Rannoch.
Agriculture was very primitive so that the peoples very
existence depended on cattle and adequate grazing.
It
was probably shortage of grazing and its subsequent consequences
that brought the first Camerons to Rannoch, but this would be
some time before the Loch of the Sword incident. The early Camerons
were not a rich clan. The country they lived in was difficult:
most of it was over a thousand feet with steep and narrow glens
and not able to support a great number of people. In addition
they had frequent feuds with a rival clan, the Mackintoshes, which
continually drained their resources. When times were particularly
hard some had to find a living elsewhere and many came to Rannoch.
They lived on both sides of the loch some of them settling down
peaceably, others finding themselves very much at home with the
many caterans already occupying Rannoch; after all they were just
as experienced at lifting cattle as many others who
had been brought up in a Highland glen.
The
largest body of Camerons who came to Rannoch were the McSorlies
of Glen Nevis. They were a tribe descended from the race of Somerled,
hence the name McSorlie. They settled in large numbers on Slios
Garbh, the South side of the loch, mainly at Camghouran. According
to the present Chief they were not faithful adherents of the Cameron
chiefs although they were of course part of the Clan and followed
the Chief, Cameron of Lochiel, on various occasions. There was
an occasion when Lochiel had instructed some of his men to go
to Rannoch to raise the Camerons there for service in the regiment
in support of Prince Charlie in 1745. An account of this recruiting
was given by John MacDonald of Dalchosnie. He said: Upon
Thursday, the 15th August Cameron of Kinlochleven, Cameron of
Blairchierr, Cameron of Blairmackalt, Cameron of Glennevis, Cameron
(Alias Macalonvie) of Strone, heads of the several tribes of the
name Cameron, came from Lochiels country and entered Rannoch
with a party of their servants and followers to the number of
24, and went from house to house on both sides of Loch Rannoch,
the North side belonging to Sir Robert Menzies, and the South
side to Struan Robertson, and intimated to all the Camerons, which
are pretty numerous on both sides of the said loch, that if they
do not forthwith go along with them, they would that instant proceed
to burn all their houses and haugh their cattle. Whereupon they
carried off the Rannoch men about one hundred mostly of the name
Cameron. From the same report came the admission from Dalchosnie
that MacDonald of Keppoch warned him that a like fate would befall
him and his cattle if he did not join his chief.
The
MacGregors who lived on the Isle and on Slios Mm had brought Rannoch
into bad repute and the Camerons did the same for the Slios Garbh
with their turbulent and unruly ways.
They became as notorious as the MacGregors at the creach,
particularly after the 1745 rebellion. It is worth remembering
at this time that after the defeat of the Stewarts after the Baffle
of Culloden, cattle thieving all over the Highlands had increased
for a very good reason... the reason being that all their own
had been stolen by the greatest thief of the lot, the notorious
Duke of Cumberland, by whose orders at least 40,000 head of cattle
were collected and sold to southern drovers, while the number
of the horses were so great that most of the private soldiers
were given one each.
Of
course cattle were not the Duke of Cumberlands main concern.
He was determined to break the spirit of the Highlanders so that
they would never rise again in rebellion. So cruelly did he do
his work that in Scotland he was called Butcher Cumberland.
The English later gave his name to the flower, Sweet William,
while the Scots called their noxious weed, the Ragwort, after
him, Stinking Willie. Troops were ordered to hunt down Prince
Charlies men wherever they were to be found. They were dragged
out of cottages where they had taken refuge and they were shot
in cold blood. Although the pursuit of them was pursued ruthlessly
it was not easy in Rannoch. One Cameron on the run, called Black
Duncan, led the soldiers a fine dance. He was remarkable for his
agility and swiftness of foot. When Bonnie Prince Charlie was
beseiging Stirling, Black Duncan was sent upon some urgent business
to Fort William. He did this journey on foot, a distance of 88
miles, in a day. His strength and skill in the mountains enabled
him to avoid pursuit with ease. He used to rest up in Meal Chomraidh
on a rocky ledge now called Leaba Dhonnacha Dhuibh a Mhonaidh,
meaning The Bed of Black Duncan of the Mountains. This position
at the head of the Loch Rannoch is in a vast amphitheatre surrounded
by mountains, providing views of 20 to 40 miles distance. He could
see the Redcoats searching for his hiding place but he was concealed
from view even from someone approaching close to it.
An
incident in which he and another fugitive were concerned is said
to have given rise to a well-known story called The Lone
Highlander. It concerned a large troop of Redcoats who were
on patrol from The Barracks at the west end of Loch Rannoch to
the Soldiers Trenches (still to be seen on the West Highland
Line between Gorton and Rannoch Station) when they saw a lone
Highlander on the top of Meall Chomraidh making rude gestures
and taunting the soldiers. A private and a corporal were sent
up to deal with him. They disappeared over the top following him
and there were sounds of battle. Then it was quiet. Not long after
this the lone Highlander appeared again but there was no sign
of the private or the corporal. He made further rude gestures
at the soldiers so an officer was detailed to lead a troop up
to teach him a lesson. They disappeared over the top from where
there were sounds of shouting and yelling, then it was quiet.
Lo and behold the lone Highlander again appeared and again he
started mocking the troops. The Colonel in charge now ordered
the bugler to signal an all-out attack and the remainder of the
unit charged up the hill. As they were approaching the top a figure
limped out signalling frantically. It was the private, who was
wounded. He yelled out, Get back! Get back! Its a
trap. There are two of them!
I
do not apologise for this light-hearted diversion, for serious
things are to follow. Such fugitives were driven to lead the life
of outlaws for subsistence, swelling the large numbers of caterans
already in Rannoch. The most famous of these was a Cameron whose
daring and character made him a folk hero. His name was John Dubh
Cameron, commonly called (Big) Sergeant Mhor. He had fought with
Bonnie Prince Charlie at Culloden and he soon gathered round him
a band of desperadoes, all armed and accustomed to fighting. He
led them on raid after raid, escaping to safety in Rannoch. He
got the reputation of being a sort of Robin Hood. He plundered
the Whigs and the Sassenachs and he gave to the poor. He also
controlled his men from committing senseless violence. Followers
and others worshipped him. It was said that although he extorted
the usual Black Mail over the Lowlands the protection money they
paid him guaranteed that if their cattle was stolen by others
he would replace it. Unfortunately one day on a raid in Braemar
one of his men killed a man. As soon as it happened the Sergeant
stopped the raid, but the deed had been done. A larger price was
put on his head and the search for him intensified. A Lieutenant
Munro was put in charge of the party to search him out (he later
became the famous General Sir Hector Munro).
The
Lieutenant marched with a strong force of soldiers through Rannoch.
Here, one of his own clansmen gave Big John away, whether from
spite or for the reward is not known. He informed the Redcoats
where he was hiding. It was in a house at Dunan and under cover
of darkness they surrounded this place. After a great struggle
Big John was overpowered. He was taken to Perth where he was tried.
The reports of his trial show that he was defiant to the end.
He was executed and hanged in chains on 23rd November, 1753.
It seems
that another leader took over after Sergeant Mhors capture
called Donald Cameron (known as Donald Bane Leane) but he was soon
arrested for cattle stealing and he was executed at Rannoch as an
example to the others. He expressed surprise and indignation at
his hard fate as he had not committed murder or robbery, only taken
cattle off those with whom he had quarrelled. He had merely taken
part in the Highland activity of cattle lifting
He
was said to be the last man to be hanged on the Gilbert tree.
A pardon had arrived for him but the commanding officer of the
troops concealed the fact and allowed the execution to take place,
considering that it would be an example to the wrongdoers in the
district. He was right!
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