Tour
The Unspoiled Charm Of Aberfeldy
Map
of this location
It
was in 1787 that Robert Burns penned his famous invitation to
" Come let us spend the lichtsome days in the Birks of Aberfeldie."
Accept the offer of Scotland's National Poet and you too will
experience the unspoiled beauty of this spectacular part of
Perthshire.
Every
visitor to Aberfeldy should walk across its famous bridge, which
provided the vital crossing of the River Tay for General Wade's
network of military roads. The bridge was constructed in 1733
to the design of architect William Adam, father of the more
famous Robert Adam. The work was completed in 9 months using
clorite schist from a local quarry. onstruction of the bridge
was supervised by General Wade and carried out by soldiers employed
as labourers. Wade considered his bridge at Aberfeldy to be
his greatest accomplishment. Prior to the construction of the
bridge, the river was crossed by a ferry. Thus, the motto of
the seal of the Burgh - " Swift and often goes the boat
of Aberfeldy. "
Nearby
you will also find the Black Watch memorial commemorating the
raising of the world famous regiment. In the wake of the 1715
Scottish rebellion, companies of trustworthy Highlanders were
raised from loyal clans. They became known as the Black Watch
for the watch they kept on the Highlands and from their dark
government tartan. In 1739 King George II authorised the companies
be formed into a regiment of foot, "the men to be natives
of that country, and none other to be taken". That same
year they held their first regimental parade on the banks of
the River Tay at Aberfeldy, on what is now part of the Golf
course. The monument takes the form of a massive cairn surmounted
by the statue of Private Farquhar Shaw dressed in the original
uniform of the regiment.
The
original golf course was created on the site of two of the town's
grazing areas. It was opened on July 5th, 1895, by Lady Currie
of Garth and redesigned in the 1920'2 by James Braid. The golf
course is now extended on the north bank of the river, to the
scene of the first muster of the Black Watch. Access to the
north bank is by the world's first fibreglass bridge, erected
in 1992. The course, which is just a few minutes walk from the
town centre, has eighteen holes and splendid views of the River
Tay and surrounding hills. Angling is also renowned around Aberfeldy.
And wonderful walks are plentiful.
The Birks of Aberfeldy, a wooded den surrounding the Falls of
Moness, has been maintained as a scenic walk for almost 200
years, first by the Moness Estate, and now by the District Council.
It was visited by Robert Burns on August 30th, 1787, inspring
him to write the " The Birks of Aberfeldy " describing
the beauty of the area.
The present Aberfeldy Water mill, situated on Mill Brae, was
built in 1825 in the form of a two-storey, stone rubble structure
of L-shaped plan, with brick and wooden additions. The kiln
has a pyramidal roof and an unusual shaped ventilator. The mill
is driven by an eight-spoked overshot wood and iron wheel. The
Forbes family of Camserney were the original owners, followed
by McKerchar and McNaughton of Aberfeldy. The Water Mill was
completely restored in 1987 by Tom Rogers, a miller from Cupar
in Fife, and is now open to the public.
There
is a long tradition of illicit distilling in the Aberfeldy area,
but the present legal distillery was established on its present
site in 1898, and lies just to the east of Aberfeldy overlooking
the River Tay.
Aberfeldy Gallery established in 1981 as a showcase
for the work of local artists and craftsmen. Since that time
the Gallery has become well known for the high quality of artwork
on display and artists from all over the country are now regular
exhibitors. Increasing demands for the paintings, sculptures
and pottery ensures a steady turnover of work and a constantly
changing exhibition.
The
Gallery concentrates on original artwork and shows paintings
of both a traditional and contemporary nature. The space is
divided into 3 galleries with Gallery 1 showing traditional
watercolours, some superb "Raku" figures, pottery,
furniture and decorative wood pieces hand turned from native
trees. Gallery 2 shows contemporary paintings in watercolour
and acrylic together with sculpture carved from Scottish marble,
both abstract and realist in nature. Gallery 3 has just opened
and contains a fine show of oil paintings, photography and new
items of pottery. There is therefore something for everyone.
Weem village, just north of Aberfeldy, existed as long ago as
1235, pre-dating Aberfeldy by about 500 years. The ancient village
was previously known as Bail-a-Chlalchain nan Uamh ( Kirktoun
or Churchtown of Weem. ) The village was a centre of religious
and economic importance. The Weem Hotel, a historic Inn, is
said to date back to 1527. This was more than likely the base
for General Wade during the 1733 construction of the bridge
at Aberfeldy. The old church dates from around 1510 and was
a place of worship until 1839 when it became the mauseleum of
the Menzies family.
West
of Weem lies the historic Castle Menzies waiting to welcome
you. From the fourteenth century the lands around Weem were
part of the extensive possessions of the Chiefs of Clan Menzies
and it was here in 1488 that following the destruction by the
fire of the Menzies stronghold, Comrie Castle (The ruins of
a later replacement of which are 4 miles west of Weem It became
the seat of the cadet branch), Sir Robert Menzies built a new
mansion, the "Place of Weem".
This new building however was soon to suffer a similar fate
to the previous residence for in 1502 it was pillaged and burned
by Neil Stewart of Garth. Subsequently a new castle, the older
part of the present structure was erected, whether it was built
on the remains, or site, of the earlier castle as has been suggested
is till uncertain as also is the exact date of construction.
In 1577 the upper storey and roof were altered and the series
of dormers with their elaborate pediments which are a distinctive
feature of the building then added. The date is carved on one
of the dormers and it is recorded in the "Chronicle of
Fortingall" - 1577; "Item - Thar symmyr the Castle
of Weym was byggth and ended". The castle, thus completed
is considered and excellent example of an early mature Z-plan
building representing the transition between the older type
of fortified tower-house and the later mansion designed for
domestic rather than military purposes. There is little doubt,
however that the castle was the first constructed chiefly with
aneye to defence, as might be expected after the fate of its
predecessor and also from its strategic situation on the level
lands below the rick of Weem commanding the east-west highway
of Strath Tay and the road to Rannoch. Today it is still an
imposing and dominating structure on the landscape; before 1577
it must have appeared more threatening, for the alterations,
made no doubt with the expectancy of more peaceful times ahead,
involved the removal of upper works which probably of a more
obvious military nature.
Any earlier hopes of more peaceful times were not to be realised,
however, and, at the same time, the strategic importance of
the castle was made more evident in later troubled history of
the Central Highlands. In 1644 the castle was probably involved
when the Chief, Sir Alexander Menzies of Menzies, having declined
to support the Royalist cause, had temerity to harass the forces
of Montrose as they passed though Weem on their way to the Lowlands
and in 1646 the castle was occupied by General Monk's forces.
In the 1715 Rebellion, jacobite troops took and occupied the
castle and in 1746, the family were ejected and the castle manned
by the Duke of Cumberland's forces. the latter occupation began
four days after the Young Pretender, Prince Charles Edward Stuart,
had rested for two nights at Castle Menzies on his march north
with a detachment of his army from Stirling to Inverness.
In the early eighteenth century, the angle of the north tower
and the main block was enclosed by a new set of apartments with
a stairwell communicating with the new rooms and those of the
main block and the north tower of the old building by openings
in the north wall and north tower west wall. At the same time,
a new entrance (that now in use) was made in the center of the
south wall of the main block and the vaulted chamber within
modified to form a hall leading through to the new stair in
the north wing. Extensive redecoration of the old castle occurred
at this time. In 1840, a west wing followed closely the style
of the original was constructed (architect William Burn) which
communicated with (modified) eighteenth century additions.
Castle
Menzies remained the seat of the Menzies of Weem until the death
of the last of the main line of that family in 1918. It subsequently
passed through various hands and was last used during the 1939-45
War as a Polish Army medical stores depot. It was acquired in
a greatly dilapidated condition by the Menzies Clan Society
in 1957. Surveys carried out in 1971-72 indicated an extensive
infection of active dry-rot and the necessity for urgent action
if the building were to be saved for the future. Accordingly
plans for a thorough restoration of the sixteenth century castle
were prepared and an appeal for funds initiated. Aided by a
grant from the Historic Buildings Council for Scotland, work
on the first phase started in September 1972 and completed the
following year. as a result the building is now open to the
public.
A
Brief History of The Menzies Name
(as
contributed by Ron Mennie)
The
name Menzies is of Norman origin, coming from Mesnieres in Normandy
to England where it was transformed into Manners, the surname
of the Dukes of Rutland, although other early spellings in Scotland
include Meyers, Mingies and Mengues. As Normanisation progressed
into Scotland under the descendants of Malcolm Canmore and Queen
Margaret, a family apparently settled in Lothian and from there
moved into the Highlands. The name occurs in charters of the
12th and 13th centuries and in 1 249 Sir Robert de Meyeris became
Lord Chamberlain of Scotland to Alexander II. His son Alexander
held Weem, Aberfeldy and Fortingall in Atholl. He supported
Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn and was rewarded further territories,
in Glendochart and Durisdeer in Nithsdale, thus by the King's
death the Menzies possessions extended west from Aberfeldy almost
as far as Loch Lomond. David Menzies was appointed Governor
of Orkney and Shetland under the King of Norway in 1423. Sir
Robert Menzies, another descendant of the first Robert, the
chamberlain, had his properties erected into a barony of Menzies
by King James IV. In 1688 when the Stuarts were driven from
the throne the chief of the clan favoured the new government,
but in 1715 the Menzies were "out" for James Edward
and although during the '45 Clan Menzies took no part in the
rebellion, some of them were raised by Menzies of Shian.
The Menzies were also involved in various feuds; even with the
Campbells, with whom they had various bonds and marriage alliances.
Sir Alexander Menzies of Castle Menzies was created Baronet
of Nova Scotia in 1665 from whom descended Sir Neil who died
in 1910 without issue. His sister became chieftainess till her
death. Other distinguished branches include the Menzies of Pitfoddels
and the Menzies of Culdares. One of the Menzies of Pitfoddels
carried the Royal Standard at the Battle of Invercarron in 1650
and the last chief founded the Roman Catholic College of Blairs
near Aberdeen. The Menzies of Culdares are said to have introduced
the larch to Scotland from the Tyrol in 1738. This Menzies house
is now regarded by the Lyon Court as the nearest to the chiefship
and in 1958 Ronald Menzies of that Ilk was reinvested as Chief.
The present-day chief now lives in Australia. Castle Menzies
near Aberfeldy was re-acquired and is now the head-quarters
of Clan Menzies.
Near
Aberfeldy there are two gardens open to the public; one nearby
in Bolfracks, noted for its flowering bulbs and stream garden,
and another at Cluny House which is a beautiful woodland garden.
The Bolfracks estate used to belong to the Stewarts of Atholl,
then passed to the Menzies family and subsequently became Breadalbane
property in 1808. It is now a private residence but the gardens
are open to the public from may to September. Behind the house
is an old burial ground of the Menzies family.
The district around Aberfeldy is rich in natural heritage and
folklore, typified by the thatched cottages of Fortingall. Look
out for the 3000 year old yew tree in the churchyard. The pre-reformation
church was pulled down in 1901 and totally rebuilt. Inside the
church is a rare Celtic bell, characterised by its lack of a
clapper. This bell would have been rung by being struck from
the outside. The famous Yew Tree still stands in the churchyard
and is known to be 3,000 years old - the oldest piece of growing
vegatation in Europe. In 1886, Sir Donald Currie commissioned
the architect James Maclaren to rebuild the village. Maclaren
and his partnership designed the the thatched cottages, the
hotel, the two farmhouses, several estate buildings and the
enlarged Glen Lyon House. Fortingall is a village of great beauty
and architectural interest. At Fortingall you will also be at
the mouth of Glen Lyon, the longest enclosed glen in Scotland.
Some of Perthshire's finest scenery can be captured here. So
don't forget your camera !
Simply called "The Glen " by locals, Glen Lyon ( Glen
of Polished Water ) is often proudly proclaimed as the most
beautiful glen in the whole of Scotland. It was known in ancient
times as Gleann Fasach - The Deserted Glen, and by the first
Scots as Glelann Cam Clachan - The Crooked Glen of Stones. Later
it became known as Gleann Abhainn Dubh - Glen of the Black River.
Up the glen, at Bridge of Balgie stands the mighty Ben Lawers,
Perthshire's highest and most fascinating mountain, home to
a world-beating selection of alpine flowers. The magnificent
mountain overlooks Scotland's largest loch, Loch Tay, on whose
eastern shores lies the picturesque village of Kenmore.
It is at Kenmore where you can enjoy unrivalled views of Loch
Tay. The location of Kenmore, the point at which the river leaves
the loch, has always been of importance as a ferry crossing.
The ferry was known as the Cobil Croft (Boat Croft), operated
by a boatman who also cultivated a small plot of land to make
ends meet. Kenmore Church was built in 1759 and the village
as it appears today was laid out in the 18th century by the
3rd Earl of Breadalbane.
One
of the main entrances to Taymouth Castle estate, the West Gateway,
was built in 1857 and leads directly off the Kenmore village
square. The Estate dates back thousands of years, while the
castle was originally built in the 1500's and demlolished in
1806 to make way for the present structure. The grounds were
landscaped throughout the ages. The Taymouth Castle Golf Course
was designed by the famous James Braid and laid out throughout
the parkland. The second course in the area, Kenmore Golf Course,
was opened in 1992 on converted farmland by the banks of the
silvery Tay. The mildly undulating fields, the natural mounds
with mature Scots Pine and the ditch and dyke boundaries allow
the layout to follow and utilise the natural features.
The
Scottish Crannog Centre is situated at Croft-na-Caber just south
of Kenmore. Crannogs are artificially created or modified islands,
the earliest of which dates back some 5,000 years. Crannogs
provided safe havens from wild animals and human enemies, whilst
also acting as refuges for friendly travellers as well as providing
for the ability to control waterways and trade routes. The Scottish
Crannog Centre features an authentic replica of an early Iron
Age crannog based on the underwater excavations of the 2,500
year old "Oakbank Crannog" located off the village
of Fearnan.
There is a very fine stone circle at Croftmoraig, on the Aberfeldy
road 3 miles to the east of the town. It is one of the most
complete groups of standing-stones in Perthshire.
Robert Burns, 1787
Now simmer blinks on flowery braes,
And o'er the crystal streamlet plays;
Come, let us spend the lightsome days,
In the birks of Aberfeldie!
Chorus:
Bonnie lassie, will ye go,
Will ye go, will ye go,
Bonnie lassie, will ye go
To the birks of Aberfeldie!
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
Return
to Perthshire